West Africa Journal

When people ask me what is so different about Sierra Leone from Canada, I find it a struggle to answer because there is nothing the same. From seasons, to people, to food to climate – where does one begin? However, this past month I was in a situation that I thought illustrated these differences perfectly. Come to the bank with me!

In Sierra Leone, when one is expecting a wire or money transfer from overseas, your receiving bank must be notified in advance. This is really important so you don’t mess up procedures within the bank. And before you ask, yes, we do have numbered accounts.

Last month, for instance, I forgot to phone the bank. I got a call quite early one morning from my banker person who fearfully asked me if I was expecting a wire transfer. I replied that I was and the banker person said ‘oh’’ and remained very quiet. I asked if the money had come and he said yes, some money came but they weren’t EXPECTING it. I received a mild scolding with the admonishment to PLEASE inform them ahead of time next time! Ok.

I told my banker person that I would like to come collect the funds because you don’t just walk in to the bank and expect to  deposit or withdraw money without prior arrangement. Yes, I mean that. I set up an appointment for that day, repeating everything 3 times so the banker would know I was serious about coming and hung up the phone. In a country where absolutely nothing is ever planned in advance – well, your banking MUST be. Ok.

I arrived at the bank at my appointed time and went to the desk of my banker friend. Of course his chair was empty and when I asked for him, his co workers couldn’t decide whether he had stayed home that day or had gone for an extended lunch. I was invited to ‘take a chair’. Oh dear, I knew what this meant. I had brought a water bottle with me but no book to read and no lunch. After a little more than an hour, my banker friend appeared, hand outstretched and welcomed me like a long lost auntie(with family money). He asked if I still wanted to withdraw my money and I assured him I did because by now I was in serious need of some lunch.

I was taken to a counter where he informed a woman that I wanted to withdraw funds. She was a large woman but certainly not jovial as is often the case. She threw her hands up in the air and spat out under her breath, but I don’t want to get her money. Because my stomach was rumbling, and because I had already waited a long time, I did not feel like affirming her as a wonderful person. I turned to my banker friend who was playing a game on his mobile phone. He asked me to wait a minute while he finished and I am NOT exaggerating. I told him that the woman did not want to wait on me and that I really wanted to get to my other errands if he could please get my money. While she sat in a huff (and I heard her say, how could I know the woman understood Krio), my banker friend called another man over and told him I wanted some money. The question then was – how much? I asked how much had come in for me and received disapproving glares from almost everyone within hearing distance. If the money was actually intended for me, how was it that I not know the amount because- no one told THEM the money was coming, after all. I asked for my balance which took another 10 minutes because the huffy lady’s computer was down(turned to solitaire) and the man at the next booth wasn’t around. They finally found him and my banker friend wrote it on a little piece of scrap paper and secretively showed it to me although by now everyone in the bank was waiting for service so they became involved in mine. At this time I remembered that in Canada, banks send out statements so I asked if I could possibly get one for the past couple months. They informed me that no, I could only have one from the beginning of the year to date. Ok. I didn’t even try to figure that one out because by now I had been in the bank for nearly two hours and I was so hungry I asked the Lord quietly if I could count this as a fasting day.

It took 3 more people to figure out how much I could take – because you MUST retain a minimum balance because why else would you have a bank account?? While all this was going on – and I am telling the absolute truth – I watched my banker friend roll up the little piece of paper with my balance on it and STICK IT IN HIS EAR while he talked with the others gathered around the computer screen. He then turned to me and said – now, what was your balance again? And he searched around for the paper. I very politely, with a straight face, pointed to the paper sticking in his ear. I was not going to touch it. He said, yes, yes, here we are, without blinking an eye. I signed 4 pieces of paper including a hand written letter to say I was taking my money and then began the long process of counting it since we deal with millions of leones and the highest denomination is 10,000 with 5,000 notes being the most common.

I filled my backpack and turned to go when I remembered I had not been given the up-to-date statement. My banker friend asked the printer lady for it (there is only ONE printer in the bank to ensure no fraudulent printing goes on) and she yelled, yes yelled, that she had already printed it and would NOT do it again. It was pretty quiet there in the bank for a few minutes and one of the tellers whispered to me that maybe I didn’t need the statement. I nearly slipped out right then but changed my mind and said, no, sorry, I really do need it. It took 3 of them to coax, cajole and finally bribe her to reprint the statement which I was pretty sure she hadn’t done originally. I got my statement, picked up my backpack full of loot and headed for the door, intent on breaking my fast after nearly 3 hours in the bank. As I went round the corner I heard my banker friend call after me – don’t forget to phone us next time you are expecting money please, so we can have it ready for you.

So, if you’re going to bank in Sierra Leone, forget your friendly teller, forget your banking machine and forget your online banking. You won’t find any of them here but do pack a lunch, take some drinking water, a book and plenty of patience.

Filed under: Sierra Leone on September 2nd, 2009